Pankrác, Servác, Bonifác

I am now of the opinion that until you experience seasons in a country where there are four distinct seasons, you haven't experienced them at all. I didn't think this would be quite true when people said it to me when I arrived in Prague but I can now see what all the fuss is about. 

Autumn

  

Winter

Spring

We arrived in Prague in Summer, with everything (greenery wise) looking much the same as Australia; lush green parks, shady trees etc etc but them Autumn came. The term 'fall' now makes sense to me! Every tree was like a bronzed statue flecked with an assortment of golds, oranges yellows and reds. The parks looked as though they were on fire and slowly the ground became the playground for dancing leaves and their partners, children's feet. It was beautiful.

Then along came winter, as we knew she would. She had been playing with us for the months of September, October and November but she was now here to stay. Unfortunately, we didn't get to experience a 'typical' Czech winter as the weather was surprising 'warm' (yeah right) for the winter season. So as the months of winter wore on our only respite from the grey skies and drizzly weather was the few skiing trips we went on where we throughly enjoyed all that the winter season has to offer. Finally, after months of waiting, we got our snow in Prague! Only a few days worth mind, but oh so worth the wait. It was the first time we had seen snow actually falling and making itself known in the city streets. A smattering here and there at first, but then a nice fluffy, powdery layer or the gorgeous white stuff covered Prague. Ok, so the gorgeous white stuff only lasted half of one day, then in the city is was grey slush complete with yellow spots (ten points if you can guess what thats from) and frozen doggie poops. The trams and busses were a mess and the carpet at the School I work for was a disaster zone from all the teacher coming and going all day long. We couldn't keep the smiles off our faces though and we made the most of the snow by playing in the park all afternoon. 
Towards the end of winter we were beginning to feel a little disheartened by the seemingly never-ending cold weather. The days were short with the sun coming up at 8am and setting again at 4pm so, if you were working during the day all you really got to see was night time. It was a strange experience for us but it was this experience which makes us appreciate the return of spring all the more. 
Spring came a little unnoticed at first as winter was really wanting to keep it's hold on Prague. We had days of 25 degrees then the following day 10 degrees. We had sun shine, then rain, hot then cold and then a mixture of all of them in one day. The tulips were out and blooming and the cherry blossoms had created riot on Petřín Hill but not all of the trees and flowers were this trusting, preferring to stay in their little buds until Spring had definitely arrived. 

Wild Tulips popping up everywhere

Cherry Blossoms

So it happened that in the space of one day, barely enough time to tie your shoelaces and look out the window, Prague was bursting with fresh green leaves - the greenest we have ever seen. It looked as though God pulled out his pallet of green paints, every shade imaginable, and painted Prague with them. Green spaces in the city had their water fountains filled up again and their flower beds filled with a rainbow of beautiful pansies. The bikinis are back out and people are once again sun-baking in the parks, drinking beer in the beer gardens and riding their bikes everywhere. 
Just when we thought we were in for the long run of heat and sun,  Pankrác, Servác and Bonifác reared their ugly heads. Every year, on the 12-14 May, there is a cold spell; the last stand of winter people say, and these days are named  Pankrác, Servác and Bonifác. We find it amusing that they can predict these three days in the middle of May to be cold, and Czech's find it funny that we can't (or don't). They were predicted and they came, being with them cold, wet weather and frost, ruining all the newly budding fruit on trees. It just so happened that on this weekend the Prague International Marathon was being held in the city. Thousand of people participate either in groups or individually, and who ever wasn't competing was there to watch and cheer their friends on. Our room mate Ian was running in a relay team with a group of people from School. We went down and cheered him on and were lucky enough to actually see him and him see us as he ran past! It was so inspiring to see so many people get out and run, especially all of the older people running the marathon. Some people looked as if they had just rolled out of bed that morning and said "I think I'll run a marathon today" and got up and did it. People from all walks of life, older, younger, fatter, slimer, two legs, one leg (thats right) male and female. It was amazing to watch and cheer these remarkable people on. 


The warm weather did come back, it came back yesterday and we are making the most of it. The sun is rising at 5am and isn't going to bed until after 9pm! It's wonderful and I can now fully understand why the summer months here are to be treasured like a rare gift - because they literally are! So, after that, it's off to the park for me to enjoy the sunshine and catch the all to important afternoon sun.

Prague International Marathon by Vyšehrad 

Swan Lake

Back in Australia, it was almost a little tradition of mine and Mum's to go and see the Ballet. We love it; the dancing, the music, the theatre and the atmosphere. I had been wanting to see the Ballet in Prague for a while as I had heard it is very good. So I decided to go this weekend as the tickets are cheap cheap, like $6 cheap! I went with a few friends to see Swan Lake at the State Opera. The Theatre alone was amazing, but the ballet was just incredible! We had the highest seats in the theatre so we could see right down into the orchestra pit and watch the musicians as well.
The lead ballerina was like a human rubber band; super flexible and ridiculously strong! She actually reminded me a little of spaghetti. All of the dancers were outstanding and we spent the entire ballet 'ooh-ing' and 'ahh-ing'.
I didn't actually take these photos but I wanted to show how beautiful the inside of the State Opera is and as you aren't allowed to take pictures in there, I just sampled these off Google.

Inside the State Opera

Family Visits

There is something special about being able to show the people you love what you have been doing and where you have been living while you're abroad. A few weeks ago Jon's parents came and visited us in Prague for a little over a week. It was a week full of laughs, sightseeing, eating out and just enjoying being with each other. We saw so many things that we hadn't seen previously as well as some of the old favourites like St Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge. We played the 'tour guides' (if you can call us that) and took Jon's parents to our favourite places to eat, drink coffee and, of course, shop!

Jon's parents

On the first night they were here we decided to take a walk through the city to show off where we have been living. The weather, although not cold by Prague standards, was freezing for Jon's parents! We managed to find a restaurant to retreat in and they had their first Czech meal. Goulash for Jon's Dad, who said it bought back memories of his Mothers cooking - all good memories we were assured.

One of Jon's parents favourite things to do is go out for coffee and cake and I made it my personal mission before they came to sample as many places as I could. We visited one of the most important Art Noveau building in Prague, the Municipal House, for fancy coffee and cake. Waiters pushing trolleys full of delicious cakes wander the tables wearing full 'butler' attire ready to serve you up a huge slice of apricot cheesecake, sponge, apple strudel or anything else you want!
Among the token Starbucks and Costa Coffee visits we also went to a few of my favourite coffee shops including Friends Coffee House with its super relaxed atmosphere, Mama Coffee with its hippie vibe and Cafe Louvre which is the poshest cafe in Prague (previously visited by the likes of Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein).

We ate out every night which was such a treat for Jon and I! We ate mostly Czech meals which suited Jon's parents fine as they both enjoy European cuisine. We also managed to find a few places in Prague which serve Gluten free food which was great for Jon's Mum. One place in particular, Na Zlaté Křižovatce is an entirely gluten free restaurant, even the beer was gluten free! The food was some of the best we've had in Prague and it was affordable too in a beautiful restaurant. We all gave it 10/10!

We didn't eat and drink coffee the whole time Jon's parents were here either, we managed to squeeze in some sightseeing too. It was Easter Monday when they arrived and as such, all of the Easter Markets were still set up with all the Spring decorations out too. Jon's Mum in particular loved the markets and brought lots of little trinkets to take home as gifts for people.
Old Town Square was a favourite, with the gothic Tyn Church, St Nicholas Church and the Town Hall with the Astronomical Clock, we made many return visits here.
We decided to do a tour of Prague Castle too which was pretty interesting. I'm not sure it was any better than just walking through the castle complex, but it was definitely nice to be able to go all the way into the St Vitus Cathedral and also into the old part of the Castle as well as Golden Lane. Golden Lane is a part of the Castle complex which originally served as quarters for the guards as well as a number of other small craftsmen and women. The lane was full of small colourful houses set into the northern wall of the castle. Each little house had been set up as a replica of various craftsmen and women, such as a blacksmith, a herbalist and seamstress. It was so quaint and I fell in love with it, I asked Jon if we could see how much the rent would be for one of the houses :)
It was my birthday on the weekend that they were in Prague and therefore I was in charge of choosing the outing for the day! I decided we should go to a Tropical Butterfly exhibition which was being held at the Botanical Gardens of Prague. It was absolutely beautiful being in a greenhouse full of butterflies and the weather was perfect for wandering through the gardens in the afternoon. We stopped and had a drink at a little Vinoteka (a little winebar) which was in the middle of the vineyard overlooking the Vltava River and Troja Chateau, a baroque palace in the north-west part of Prague. The Chateau has beautiful manicured gardens and an amazing baroque staircase out the front.

The tropical rainforest for the butterflies

A butterfly newly out of it's cocoon

In the Botanical Gardens

St Karel Church; overlooks the St Karel Vineyard

Troja Chateau

We also visited the Jewish Quarter (Josefov) which was formally the Jewish ghetto and we learned a lot about Jewish persecution in the Czech Republic. It was an open tour card, so once you paid for your ticket, you could visit the six different places at your leisure. This included mostly synagogues, the Jewish Town Hall, the Jewish Ceremonial Hall and the Old Jewish Cemetery. It was an interesting tour and there was lots of information available to read as well which made it a worth while trip.

After all of the food, sightseeing and coffee drinking, the nicest part was just having Jon's parents here with us in Prague. It was very sad to say goodbye and extremely hard to go back to work but alas, we are now back in routine and all of this feels like it happened months ago, not weeks.
So now we are eagerly awaiting out next visitors to Prague! My Mum and Dad as well as Jon's sister, her fiance and his brother all in July! We might need to rest before then :)

Jon's Mum and I under the blossoms at Strahov Monastery 

Vienna

Last weekend we visited Austria's capital, Vienna. We went on a quick weekend trip with some friends of ours just to get a taste of the city.
We travelled by train which was fantastic! I had wanted to travel by train ever since moving to Europe but it was always more practical to take the bus. I wasn't disappointed. There is so much to see out to window of the train. We passed small cities, little towns and quaint villages and even a castle in southern Bohemia! The trip took about 5 hours, which was a little lengthy for a one night trip.

Vienna is a beautiful city with heaps of history and interesting things to see. Unfortunately we only had two days in the city so we didn't get to see a lot of what we wanted to. The city is so much bigger than Prague with a lot of 'must do's' on the travelers itinerary. Whilst there we hired bikes from the 'City Bike' bays. The idea of these bikes is that, once you register (which is 1 euro), you can hire any of the bikes for under an hour for free! Over one hour is one euro, two hours two euro etc. It was a great way to get around the big city as it meant we could see much more than we would've seen on the metro. We had a few minor bike glitches such as gear-less bikes constantly in something like 5th gear, bikes that wouldn't come out of their holders and, in my case, not putting my bike back properly and having to pay for extended use of the bike! Annoying, but definitely a recommended experience. Thanks Jon for riding in gale force winds to fix my bike! What a hero...? :)

We visited a lot of the main sights in Vienna which are breathtaking. The architecture is really amazing - heaps of art deco buildings (I only learnt about this recently) dotted around the city. Much of the city was destroyed in WWII, so there is an interesting mix of old and 'new' buildings.

We visited the Schonbrunn palace, the summer residence of the Habsburg Monarchs. The last time we visited the palace was in the middle of summer and the immaculate garden estate was in full bloom. This time the first touch of Spring was just making itself known in the garden, with some of the trees full of blossoms but others still bare from winter. It was nice to see that Spring is finally here in Europe.

Schonbrunn Palace and some of it's gardens

The Gloriette Structure at the highest point of the palace gardens

Out the front of the palace were some markets for Easter. They were typical European markets with a beautiful backdrop of the palace. There were stalls selling street food, traditional Easter things such as painted eggs as well other stall selling homemade products. We tried some speatzle which was nice but Jon said wasn't quite as good as Oma's.

Traditional hand painted eggs for Easter

One of the things we were most looking forward to was sampling some Austrian food, and we weren't disappointed. We visited the Naschmarkt, which is Vienna's most popular market, stretching over 1.5km. You can get all sort of produce here, from fresh fruits and vegetables from around the world, exotic herbs, cheese, baked goods, meats and seafoods. There are heaps of small restaurants where you can have traditional Viennese food, seafood, kebabs, wieners etc. We opted for a bratwurst and a beer for lunch which was amazing! I didn't eat sausages before I left Australia, now I am eating them from a small 'hole in the wall' store, served by a grumpy middle aged lady. After lunch we tried some turkish delight and caramel fudge which was equally as delicious (and messy). 

We also sampled some fresh wine from a local seller. You could have the wine in small bottles, which we of course bought to drink as we walked around the remainder of the market. Attached to the end of the permanent market was a flea market full of people selling bits and bobs. Most of it was antique/ vintage goods, with the majority of that being very kitsch and as Jon put it 'just plain old crap'. I'm sure there were some real gems hidden in there and I would have loved to have poked around for longer.

Bratwurst and Beer for lunch

With our wine and seasonal flowers

Some of the produce

When we were in Vienna in 2009, we went to a place for dinner where you could order 1m of ribs! After telling our travel companions about this place, we were on a mission to locate and eat there. The restaurant was called, appropriately, "Ribs of Vienna". You could get ribs of all flavours and combinations and our companions were in Heaven. Jon and I can't go past a good Schnitzel and, when tempted with a 'plate sized wiener schnitzel' we just couldn't resist. We literally had to roll ourselves back to the hostel after dinner we were so full. Combined with an early start, a long day and way too much food, we were all about to slip into a food coma.

We also visited the Belvedere, which is a historical building complex with two baroque palaces, the Upper and Lower Belvedere. The Belvedere museum has a Gustav Klimt exhibiton, which was fantastic - we even got to see his most famous painting, The Kiss. The rest of the gallery was equally as amazing with lots of different artists and styles on display. The grounds of the palace were incredible, a 'baroque park landscape' which was full of beautiful statues and cascades, decorative tiered fountains and majestic wrought iron gates. The palace complex was built as a summer residence for Prince Eugene of Savoy.
Meanwhile, Jon went to see the Austrian Military Museum which he said was interesting despite the lack of English descriptions. He saw the clothes Archduke Franz Ferdinand was wearing and the car he was in when he was assassinated, which initiated WWI.

Upper Belvedere housing the main exhibition

We caught the train home on Sunday afternoon after a whirlwind trip to Austria's capital, feeling extremely exhausted and ready for a good nights sleep. No rest for the wicked (again), back to work bright and early Monday morning.
It was a fantastic weekend, but I think Vienna needs a good week to be explored and to get the most out of this city.

Breakfast 

There and Back Again (without the Hobbits)

At the beginning of March I made the long trip home to Perth, Australia for a family wedding. After a while away without seeing family or friends back home, it was very emotional for me. I had been looking forward to the trip ever since booking it, back in November! It's amazing that when you get to hold someone after so long apart, you realise how much you have missed them.

Mum, Dad, Emma and the Cooper clan met me at the airport and it was with blessed relief that I breathed in the sweet clean Australian air. It was the first thing I noticed as I stepped out of the airport terminal - what a difference it makes! Not that Czech air is dirty, but living in a big city in a valley really does have its respiratory downfalls.

The Family wedding was down in Margaret River, for my cousin Russell and his, now wife, Sarah. It was a beautiful wedding and a great weekend spent with the family in a gorgeous location. Sun, sand, family and wine - the perfect combination!

Bunker Bay - Dunsborough, Western Australia

Australia in March is really unpredictable, but the weather was perfect; 38/39 degrees most days while I was home, with cloudless skies and cool seabreezes. Walking along the beach with my dog Romeo, having lunch with friends, dinner with family and shopping with Mum are all things I have missed dearly, so it was great to be able to do them again.

Warnbro Beach with Romeo

I was also able to be home for the engagement party of my friends, Emma and Jordan. They got engaged recently and organised the party for the week I was home! I am so happy that I was able to share the night with them, it was a very special evening for everyone.

I had been forewarned by some friends in Prague, that visits back home are never relaxing and to expect to be kept busy for the entire time; they weren't wrong! Even with running around everyday, I still didn't do everything I wanted to do or see everyone I wanted to see.

By the time I left Perth, I was feeling more exhausted than when I arrived. No rest for the wicked though, flew into Prague Sunday night and back to work 7:15am Monday morning! My students now all know the meaning of the word 'jet-lagged'.

It was just a quick visit home but definitely worth it and as the saying goes, you don't know what you've got until it's gone. When I was in Perth I missed Jon and Prague, and now I am home in Prague, I miss my family and friends in Perth.

Rockingham Foreshore

A Bit of This and a Bit of That

Sitting here, thinking about all that has happened this year, I find myself thinking, 'not much!' But that can't be right...We have both been busy with working and just living life. Over the last few months, we have made some really great friends here in Prague, which ultimately leads to less sightseeing and more pub visiting! Not a bad trade though in my opinion. Living in a foreign country is always made easier when you have a group of friends you can turn to.

Our Christmas and New Years guests all left on January 4th, to much displeasure from Jon and I. It would be an understatement to say that going back to work after the break was hard! But we got there in the end, and we had some more friends, Karen and Mase, visit in the middle of January which was really nice. We met Karen on our Europe TopDeck tour in 2010 and her and her boyfriend Mase are making their way back to New Zealand after a long 3 years abroad. Having people visit the place where you live is wonderful, you get to play the tour guide and take them to all the best sights and best restaurants and pubs too. It is also nice to reconnect with people after a long time apart - a connection to memories or experiences shared with those people who are visiting. Having Karen here felt like we were back on our Euro trip all over again! We had lots of laughs with them and made some new memories too.

It was a few weeks after this that we got hit with the big freeze - literally. The weather had been sitting around 0 degrees (give or take 5 degrees) for the majority of winter, which is considered quite warm for Prague. Then we had about 3 weeks of temperatures averaging -15/20 degrees! I have never felt anything like it and I don't want to live through it again. It kind of feels like your skin is being scraped from your face alongside the feeling you get when you shove too much icecream in your mouth at once. You could only be outside for short periods of time - there were health warnings on the radio reminding people to keep their outdoor business to a minimum. Although, as all good things come to an end, so does freezing weather, and as the temperatures crept back up to the 0 mark, we finally got our snow in Prague! If ever you are asked the question "what is the most magical city when covered in snow?" your answer should be Prague! It was simply breath taking and totally romantic. It was a pity that it only snowed for a few days in Prague this winter, but any more and we probably would have been sick of it! Here are a few pictures we took on an excursion to capture the city in white:

Prague Castle and a slightly frozen Vltava!

On our way up to Prague Castle

Sugar dusted Prague

And more snow!

We also got to have our play in the snow too; tobogganing, making snow angels, snowball fights and snowmen all crammed into one day of blissful childhood fun! We were definitely the least experienced of all the people in the park that day when it came to 'snow activities' but I think we were having the most fun :)

Snow Angels!

The river near our apartment, frozen solid!

Smallest snowman and snowsheep ever

We managed to squeeze in another ski trip in February too. We went back to Herlikovice with a group of friends, just for the one day of skiing. The bus ride to the mountains is only 1 hour and 40 minutes, and including hire of equipment, the whole day costs less that $50! We had a great time going up and down the slopes all day, with the more than occasional pit-stop at the many bars along the slopes. I'm not sure that we are getting any better at skiing, but we certainly enjoy it!

Herlikovice slope

So, although it doesn't feel like we have done much over the last few months, we have really been living the 'overseas experience'. Making friends, working to pay the bills, enjoying the change of seasons and generally living life is what we set out to do here, and we are enjoying every minute of it. 

New Years Eve

There was much anticipation leading up to New Years Eve here in Prague, for two reasons. Firstly, we were really looking forward to seeing in the new year with Nik, Lina and Tom and secondly, for the crazy firework demonstrations which go on all over the city. Fireworks are legal here and come Christmas/New Years you can find these little beauties in the front window of every shop. Little ones which just make a loud noise, single crackers and big boxes with just one fuse to light the whole lot at once! If you can think of it, then you can probably find it here. Jon and Nik were, of course, very excited by all of this and as soon as Nik arrived in Prague they were down buying out the nearest store of their fireworks supply.

Fireworks

New Years Eve day we decided to do some sight seeing. Up to Prague Castle, Mala Strana, Charles Bridge and the Jewish Quarter. It was a very cold but clear day, and needless to say, I have never seen so many tourists in one place! Walking through the Castle grounds was like pushing your way to the front of a crowd at a music festival - lots of pushing, shoving and getting lost. It was great to be able to show Nik Prague Castle though, and St Vitus Cathedral never fails to get an "ooooh" and an "ahhhh" from visitors.

Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral

St Vitus Cathedral 

Feeling very hungry by this time, we decided to check out a place called 'Yes Burger' for lunch. We had read about this particular burger place and Lina and Tom had been wanting to try it ever since their first time in Prague (back in August!). I am not really sure what to say here to be honest and I think the best way for me to express this lunch is to show pictures.

Nik's was the 'Golem' burger, the huge one on the end...he finished it too

So, feeling extremely full and ready for a nap, we headed home to get ready for the night ahead. We decided that we should have a special 'family' dinner and all get dressed up. We called it Family Pie Night, as I had made a pie for dinner. We all put on our best clothes and drank Moet, which Nik had bought for us from Dubai. It was a wonderful dinner and probably a little strange, but thats the way we like it.
We whiled away the hours before heading out for the celebrations by playing card games and drinking sweet Italian wine, courtesy of Lina and Tom. They also bought these special biscuits from Italy which you dip into the wine before eating. They were amazing and the perfect dessert.

Sweet Italian dessert wine with biscotti - Yum!

When we eventually headed into the city centre we were blown away by the ridiculousness of the celebrations. Sure, there were firefighters, police and medical emergency crews everywhere, but not surprisingly, in Prague, this doesn't make one feel safe. People were setting of fireworks everywhere. There were no regulations or rules, no designated launching area and certainly no person trained in pyrotechnics to be seen! At the stroke of midnight things really became insane. It seemed as though most people had been saving their crackers for this moment. The noise was deafening, the smoke in the air was so thick you couldn't breath properly and fireworks were actually going off in crowds of people! We decided it was probably time to leave, and after setting off one last firework, we headed for the tram.

Fireworks in Wenceslas Square

Exploding just above the building! 

All in all it was the weirdest New Years Eve I have ever had, and certainly the most dangerous. No one lost any appendages and we all made it back to the apartment safely, even if we didn't arrive back together! For me, this is one of those things which I can say I have done, and (thankfully) I don't have to do again.